Reef Salt, Reef Complete & Reef Carbonate in 20 Gallon Tall

[Jimbo205]

I use Reef Salt and purchased Reef Complete and Reef Carbonate.

I was not able to purchase a Seachem Test kit because they do not sell them in my local stores.
I used what I could find which was a Reef Master Test Kit by API.

I change 2-4 cups per day of the water using the Seachem Reef Salt. I followed the directions and used a capful every other day twice a week with the Seachem Reef Complete and Seachem Reef Carbonate alternating days.

When I tested last night I got these results.
Ca+ 22 drops (22 d ) or 960 mg/L (ppm)
KH 15 drops (15 dKH) or 268 ppm KH
PO3/4 0-0.25 ppm (mg/L)
NO3 0-5 ppm (mg/L)

Nothing has precipitated out of the water.

Until I get feedback, I will probably not use any more supplements but will continue to do my 2-4 cups a day of water changes with Seachem Reef Salt.

Your feedback would be greatly appreciated.

[Tech Support GL]

Jimbo, that truly sounds like something with the test kits. Be sure that you are reading and performing the test properly occasionally simple errors can yield those types numbers. The number you are getting are too high not have observed precipitation of some sort in a 20 gallon.

[Jimbo205]

I performed the tests twice to double check.
One of the liquids did turn white when added but no dust settled out.

I will take a sample to a local fish store to double check the readings.

What type of error should I look for when performing the tests?
I made sure to put the caps on the tubes while mixing and not use a finger or thumb instead of a cap.

When I did the second test because I knew roughly how many drops to expect, I added more of the drops at one time to reduce number of times I had to recap and remix. Of course as I got closer to the endpoint, I mixed with each drop.

Let me know what types of errors to look for so I can try again.

Thank you for your help and support with this.

[Tech Support GL]

Those are not test made by Seachem so you may want to contact the company and see what common errors are made and to make sure the test kit is yeilding correct readings.

It is highly unlikely to have 960 ppm calcium and 15 dkh and calcification not occur and for the two to chemically stay in solution.

[Jimbo205]

It is so hard to find Seachem supplies in Upstate New York.
The closest Select Dealer is 3 1/2 hours away in NYC and Long Island. And I get tired of paying for shipping charges.

I will do as you suggest.

If you mail to me 5-6 posters or Select Dealer Information kits, I will make the pitch to my local fish stores.
I don't think the local Petsmart or Petco would allow me to do that.

Thank you for helping as much as you can.

Jimbo205

[Tech Support GL]

Thank you Jimbo. You are truly Seachem devoted. We do have a sales rep that manages that territory. I will check to see if he knows of any stores that have or can pick some other items in the near future.

[Jimbo205]

I just received my Seachem Marine pH & Alkalinity Test Kit from Union Aquarium in Schenectady, NY.
Thank you.

I had my boys give their Dad a second opinion on colors.
The pH from my tank and both new batches of ReefSalt water looked like 8.3. The reference looked darker like it was 8.5.

Paul (father) & Karen Sartoris (daughter) who run the store were curious why I wanted to special order this test kit. I told them that instead of a range from 8.0 to 8.2 to 8.4 that it was more specific and accurate. I have tried talking to Paul in the past about becoming a Select Dealer. That may take more time. His store can be found at www.unionaquarium.com . His store phone number is listed there.

You may want to add to your packages or beneath your logos - "When you are serious about your aquariums"

or

"Seachem - The brand you buy when it's not JUST a hobby anymore" or "you are serious about your investment. " Just an idea.

So why does the reference look darker - at 8.5 pH?

And how is meq/L different from KH again?

Thank you for your help.

Jimbo205

[Tech Support GL]

Jimbo, PM your address and I will send a new reference out to you to continue to verify your test with. I believe the test kit instructions give a brief description of KH, meq/L. 1 meq/L is = to 2.8 KH. The numbers are given in meq/L because this is a total alkalinity kit and KH is a measure of carbonate hardness. Total alkalinity is a measure of all of the components that can add alkalinity borate, phosphate, bicarbonate, & carbonate. So, a true value is meq/L. The magnesium test allows on to distinguish how much actual carbonate alkalinity is in the water.

Thanks for the suggestions. We truly are glad to hear you are an avid hobbyist and Seachem user.

[Jimbo205]

Thank you.

I am taking notes and learning a lot.

If I am using Seachem GrayCoast and Seachem Meridian, how will that affect or buffer the total Alkalinity?
Will that help keep it higher?

I was very happy to see my results for pH at 8.3 and my Total Alkalinity at 4-6 meq/L.
I will of course retest to make sure my methods are correct.

I still have my bottles of Reef Complete and Reef Carbonate on the shelf but will not use any until I completely understand what my tank is at now; and what adding these will do.

I have heard very good things about both from www.garf.com .

[Tech Support GL]

Jimbo this is some information on the gravels page taken from Meridian.


Why should one use aragonite?
Aragonite is a naturally occurring, calcium carbonate mineral. It is precipitated from ocean surface waters mainly by organisms (e.g., coral) that use it to make their shells and skeletons. In recent years, aragonite has nearly eclipsed all other marine substrates. This is chiefly because of it superior buffering capacity. Aragonite becomes soluble at a pH of 8.2. At this pH, the release of calcium and carbonates into the aquarium causes an upward shift in pH. This occurs so slowly, however, that aragonite is less of a viable buffer and more of a safety net. With aragonite in the aquarium, one can be reasonably sure, that the pH of the system will never go below 7.7-7.9. Additionally, aragonite's porous structure and size make it ideal for the propagation of denitrifying bacteria.

Gray Coast will also have the same effect. That does not mean you will never have to add calcium or carbonates, but the right substrate can definitely add to tank stability.

[Jimbo205]

I just received my Marine pH Reference bottle and the Marine pH testing drops. Thank you.

My son agreed to help Dad with the color interpretation of the pH and we both agreed it looks somewhere between 8.2 and 8.3 which seems good. Is a fresh batch of Reef Salt supposed to come out to 8.3 or 8.4?

The Alkalinity reference was 8 drops for 4.0 meq/L.
It is nice to feel like my testing method is correct

My Alkalinity was 17 drops which would be 8.5 meq/L.
This sounds good. Is it?

I am assuming that part of the high alkalinity is from my city hard water and the Seachem GreyCoast and Seachem Meridian.
Does this assumption sound correct?

I also assume I should not add any Reef Complete or Reef Carbonate to my water. If I did, what would happen? Snowstorm?

Thank you for the continued support and education.

Jimbo205

[Tech Support GL]

The alkalinity should be between 4-6 meq/L. 8.5 meq/L is too high. The Grey Coast and Meridian should definitely not add that much alkalinity to tank. The substrates do not give off heavy amounts of alkalinity. Certainly not enough to yield 8.5 or to even change existing alkalinity levels.

If you add the Complete or Carbonate it will precipitate out of the water.

[Jimbo205]

Using the alkalinity titration syringe, the drops are much smaller than the drops with the pH bottle.

I will test again later this week.

Patience is more than a virtue with Reef Tanks.

[Tech Support GL]

The drops for the alkalinity test are smaller. The reagents are different. With time you will be a very good reef keeper.

[Jimbo205]

Thank you for the encouragment.

I finally have 2 Shaving Brush Plants in this tank. How aggressively will these absorb phosphate, etc?

I have 4 inches of substrate - Seachem Meridian and Seachem GrayCoast. After substrate and live rock this tank holds 13 gallons of water. I have 3 Chromis and 1 Red Firefish, 1 leather and 1 Green Star Polyp.

Are salt water plants treated completely differently than fresh water plants?
I assume so, since everything else seems so whacked out in comparison to fresh water.

Is it safe to add Seachem Plant supplements to a Reef tank?

(I have all of them I think, but am afraid to use them in this tank yet.)

[Tech Support GL]

Most plants in general require similar nutrients for growth. It is similar to freshwater plants-some require more of less of some nutrient.

The Flourish line is definitely formulated for fresh water. Any of the supplement containing iron should not been added to the tank. You have some corals in the tank and iron can be detrimental to a reef.

[Jimbo205]

Point taken.

www.marineflora.com

Have they ever asked about this question?

(I will remember about the iron.)

If I put an iron tablet in the substrate, should that be safe?

[Tech Support GL]

As far as I am aware they have not asked. Most iron for macro-algae are super chelated to help avoid release. We can not safely suggest adding iron to the tank.