buffers and peat

[andre]

hello! I am having a big problem with fungus growth ( confirmed by a laboratory, I am a veterinarian, there was lots of fungus in the sample, besides some Gram positive and a few gram negative bacteria , It is like a white filamentous algae ) all over my discus tank, including inside the filters , I do not know the reason, because I am not overfeeding, there is no plants, I do lots of water changes, ow lights, I keep ten discus in a 420 liters (real volume) tank. I remove my driftwood yesterday, I hope that it was the cause , but I am suspecting about the tap water.I Am also using purigen (for 1000liters)

But the question is : I want to try the use of peat to stop this fungus, but my kh is zero and I am afraid of a quick Ph fall. Can I use peat together with alkaline buffer and acid buffer? The buffers will neutralize the humic acids ? using peat will quickly ''exaust '' the buffers? Can I put these products direct in the tank with this low carbonate hardness in the recommended doses? I want a 6,8-..7 ph.

Thank you very much!

[Tech Support AN]

Thanks for the post and we are sorry to hear about your fungus.

To be honest, you will be walking a tight rope if you add the peat before you stabilize your kH and pH. I do not think that the buffers will necessarily neutralize the peat, but I think that you should raise your KH first, before adding the peat to your tank.

I would recommend adding the Alkaline and Acid Buffers together according to the ratios listed on the label. So for a 7.0 pH, you will use the 1:2 ratio. Though you can add these buffers directly to the aquarium, I would suggest pre-dissolving them in a little freshwater first, since you do not have any buffering capability in the tank at the moment. After each addition of the buffers, check you pH and KH, and continue adding them until you have reached your desired levels. Keep in mind that the ratios are meant for RO water, so if you are using tap water, it may take a little trial and error. Also, try not to shift the pH more than 0.5 unit in a 24 hour period.

Once you have been able to stabilize your aquarium, then you should be able to add the peat without running the risk of crashing your pH.

I hope this helps!

[andre]

Hello! I do not understand. The label says that it is safe to put the product in the tank, and the ph will change slowly. Do not say anything about risk in a low DH water. If I pre dissolve the product in other aquarium ,how can I know in how much volume in liters I will do it ,and how much of this water I will put in the tank every day? How Can I control it after? It get too complicated. I was thinking about do half of the dose of alkaline buffer, since I want a 3 -4 DH ,and that is the minimum to buffer the water. (at least I read it)

Once using the buffer, when doing a water change, should I replace the product direct in the tank or pre mix and wait 24 hours ?Or it depends of how much water will be changed?

Thank you!

[Tech Support AN]

You can certainly put the products directly in the tank. It is simply my preference to pre-dissolve any powder for a more gentle introduction and also, for better solubility. The only reason I mention being careful, is because you have zero buffering capability right now and when you add any acid or base, there is no buffer zone to prevent it from shifting too much too quickly. You can certainly start with a lower dose of the Alkaline Buffer and move up slowly, testing after each addition. You can add the product to your aquarium daily until you have reached a stable point. Once you have reached that point, it will only be necessary to add the buffer at each water change to the replacement water. For example, if you change out 10 gallons of water, then you will add the appropriate amount of the Alkaline Buffer for the 10 gallons. This should bring your replacement water close to that of your aquarium. You need to add the buffer to the replacement water and quickly add it to your aquarium. The longer you let the water sit in the open air, the quicker the pH will shift as a result of the surrounding CO2.

I hope this clears up any confusion. Please let us know if you need further assistance or have additional questions.

[andre]

Thank you! can I put the product in the tank and then replace the water, if I change 30 % of the water?

Another question: the UV filter can interfere with the action of your products, for example, discus trace or prime? ( sometimes I put prime in the tank and then add tapwater) .

wow the acid buffer works as it reduces the the kh, that is a buffer, (carbonates) and have no phosphates (whic element buffers the water?) . it is good to use with discus fish in a only fish tank?

Thank you very much!

[Tech Support AN]

You are welcome!

The idea is to achieve the same levels that are in your aquarium in your replacement water. So it is best to add the buffers to your replacement water prior to putting it in the tank.

UV should not have any impact on the mentioned products.

These product use carbonates/bicarbonates to buffer the water instead of phosphates. If you are trying to raise your KH, you do not want to add the Acid Buffer alone. This will convert any available carbonates/bicarbonates into CO2, thus lowering your KH along with your pH. It is best to use the products together according to the ratios.

It is perfectly acceptable to use these products in a discus fish only tank.